Super-city Seoul is the face of 21st-century South Korea, but the country's lush landscape and rich culture are ancient. From the leisure island of Jeju-do in the south, to Gyeongju's archaeological wonders and the dream-like mountains and temples of Songnisan, beauty and harmony are everywhere.

CITYSCAPE

Discover Seoul's royal palaces and temples among the manic neon signs and high-rises. Visit the former royal residence Gyeongbokgung Palace and see Confucian architecture in Namsangol Hanok Village. Escape the capital to temple-hop around Gyeongju, ancient capital of the Silla Kingdom, then stroll around the lakes of Chuncheon and visit the beaches and historic residences of Gangneung.

LANDSCAPE

Explore the caves of Jeju-do island and climb Korea's highest peak Mount Hallasan (1,950m). Hike in the Songnisan National Park, home to the Beopjusa Temple. Soak in the Seoraksan Mountains hot springs and admire the traditional architecture of Hahoe Village. Island-hop in Dadohae Haesang National Park and hit the slopes at Suanbo Sajo Ski Resort.

TAKE HOME

Buy calligraphy and silk embroidery from artisans at the Korean Folk Village, south of Seoul. Browse the antique shops of Seoul's Insadong district for period furniture and paintings or Icheon Ceramics Village for fine pottery. Find silk pouches, tea sets - and ginseng tea - as well as oriental fans and screens throughout the country.

EAT AND DRINK

Korean food is spicy, with kimchi (hot pickled cabbage) an accompaniment to everything. Try mild bulgogi (marinated beef) and spicy haemultang (seafood broth). In coastal areas, go for ojingeo sundae (stuffed squid) and in Jeju-do, treat yourself to milgam hwachae (mandarin punch). Wash it down with green tea, but go easy on potent rice- and potato-based liquors like soju .

TRY SOMETHING NEW

Explore funky Sinchon, the youthful heart of Seoul. Browse boutiques, sample the afternoon food market, see street art, and lie in the 19th-century Yonsei University gardens admiring its ivy-covered buildings.

TIPS

Bring seasonally suitable clothing and sun protection for mountain walks and island exploration. Read up on Korea's turbulent history to appreciate its achievements in the face of adversity.

AIRPORT

Incheon International Airport (ICN)

ALL YEAR HAPPENINGS

Go rural for January or February's Lunar New Year celebrations for traditional games and festivities. Watch the lantern processions on Buddha's Anniversary in April or May, and the shamanic masks during June's Dano Festival. In September, travel to Hahoe Village for the Andong International Masque Dance Festival. Get to Gochang for October's Moyangseong Festival's dizzying fortress-top walk.

PUBLIC HOLIDAYS

New Year's Day (1 Jan), Sollal (Jan/Feb), Samiljol - Movement towards Independence (1 Mar), Buddha's Anniversary (May), Korean War Memorial Day (6 Jun), Liberation Day (15 Aug), Foundation Day (3 Oct), Chuseok (Oct), Christmas Day (25 Dec).

WEATHER

Korea has well-defined seasons. Winters are cold (average -3°C in Seoul; +3°C in Busan), clear and snowy, meaning excellent skiing in the Gangwon-do province near Seoul. Autumn is mild and less humid than summer, and the time to join outdoor-bound locals roaming in the splendid foliage of Seoraksan or Songnisan National Parks. The mild spring brings cherry blossoms. Summer is warm (average 25°C) and humid, with frequent rainfall in July. The southern islands enjoy tropical summers.

ELECTRICITY

220V AC, 60 Hz, two round-pin plugs are standard.

DIALING CODE

+82 (national).

MONEY

Korean Won (W) is the currency.

TIME

GMT +9.

SOUTH KOREA TOURIST INFO

Tour 2 Korea website

FIT IN

Koreans are polite. Remove your shoes before entering a home, and bow slightly when meeting strangers. The elderly have right of way during meals – wait for them to start and finish the meal. Unlike in China, slurping, belching and other bodily appreciations aren't ok. Social drinking is serious business here, so empty full liquor glasses handed to you and live with the consequences.